How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets
January 27, 2012 | 
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Staining kitchen cabinets, and how you prepare to stain depends on what you are starting with.
Are you building your own cabinets?
Are your cabinets unfinished in your garage waiting to be installed?
Are your cabinets new and already installed, but in need of staining?
Are you stripping your cabinets and then re-staining and refinishing them?
Or are you going to try your hand at re-facing?
You will prepare and stain a bit differently for each of the above situations; however, there are some basic steps and supplies that are universal when you are staining kitchen cabinets.
List of Basic Supplies You Will Need:
a good stain (I like a good oil-based stain, like a Sherwin-Williams oil based wiping stain)
stirring stick
sand paper (150 to 320 grit)
saw horses or work bench to stain on
drop clothes/cardboard
cotton rags
carpet pieces or other tool to apply stain (the right carpet really works well to get into those nooks and crannies)
clothes/shoes you don’t mind getting dirty (the stain won’t come out – it’s a good idea to invest in a body apron that you don’t mind getting ruined)
dust mask/respirator face mask
latex or rubber gloves
lacquer thinner or acetone (to remove stain off of where you don’t want it – like hinges or the floor; if you don’t have these, you can use finger nail polish remover, most contain acetone)
well ventilated area to work in
area to set wood to dry
Step #1 – Remove Doors, Drawers, Hardware and Lay Flat
If you are building your own cabinets, staining them is simply a step in the building process. You can stain everything, and put finish on it too, before you ever put anything together.
If your cabinets are pre-built, try to remove as much hardware as possible (handles and hinges). It is much easier to put the hardware back on than to try and clean it later. If you can take the hardware off, number each piece, then also put that same number on the wood where the hardware sits – making sure it is inconspicuous.
You should also remove the doors and drawer fronts before you begin staining kitchen cabinets, if you can, so you can lay them flat. Again, if you remove hinges, etc., do so and number so it won’t show on your finished product.
The advantage of having an item lying flat while you are staining kitchen cabinets is that the stain and finish won’t run all over and create a look you don’t want – sloppy. Who wants to put a lot of work, time, and effort into staining kitchen cabinets, just to see the finished product look sloppy and completely unprofessional? Learning how to stain kitchen cabinets means ending up with a stain job that looks beautiful and professional and says to the world that you know what you’re doing. You want your cabinets to look like you paid a fortune, even if you didn’t.
Step #2 – Look Your Pieces Over and Sand If Necessary
When first staining kitchen cabinets, look over the pieces you want to stain. Do they need to be sanded first? Most likely they are already sanded well, and you’ll just have to sand out small scuff marks which resulted from handling them or installing the cabinets.
Use a fine grit sandpaper, 150, 220, or even higher. Once you begin staining kitchen cabinets, any marks you’ve missed in sanding will jump out at you. You can always sand out marks and scuffs after you’ve stained your kitchen cabinets, but that takes more time and energy, so try to do a good job of sanding initially.
Step #3 – Setting Up The Area Where You Will Be Staining Kitchen Cabinets – Remember Safety First!
It is a good idea to stain items on saw horses if you have them, or on any sturdy table or bench that is about waist high. As you learn how to stain kitchen cabinets, you will be glad you used a drop cloth or cardboard on your floor or on any area that you don’t want stain on. You can use lacquer thinner or acetone to wipe up stain, but it doesn’t always work (like you can almost never get stain out of clothes). Also, lacquer thinner or acetone might melt or ruin what the stain is sitting on. If you don’t have lacquer thinner or acetone, use finger nail polish remover. It has acetone in it. Don’t inhale the fumes of such products, or get them on your hands.
You’ll also need to mask off any parts of the cabinets you don’t want stained, such as the interiors.
Wear clothes and shoes you don’t mind getting dirty, and/or a full body apron.
You should also wear latex or rubber gloves and safety glasses when you are staining kitchen cabinets. These precautions are not only for when you are learning how to stain your kitchen cabinets, but are necessary even if you become an expert. Safely is of the utmost importance.
ALERT: BEWARE OF DANGEROUS FUMES. Wearing a dust mask won’t do any good against fumes. Only wear a dust mask if you are in the sanding process. You will either have to invest in a respirator face mask for your safety, or ensure that you are in an extremely well ventilated area, such as your garage with doors wide open, or both. Fumes from the chemicals used while you are staining your kitchen cabinets are extremely dangerous, not only to breathe in, but, if concentrated enough, they can cause an explosion. And, don’t be fooled by water-based products. They can give off fumes and hazardous odors as well. Each product’s danger level is different, but error on the side of caution. Knowing how to stain kitchen cabinets means knowing how to do it safely.
Step #4 – Applying The Stain
Once you know where you are going to be staining kitchen cabinets, and have yourself and your area prepared, open your stain can and stir well. This cannot be overstated enough. When the can sits for any length of time, the stain will separate and sediment (color) will sit at the bottom of the can. If you do not stir well, the stain you use from the top of the can will be much lighter than the stain you end up using at the bottom of the can (and at the end of your project). These results will not look good. The things you stain first will be much lighter than the last pieces you stain.
To apply the stain, one of the easiest tools to use are old carpet remnants. Cut them into approximately 4 x 3 inch rectangles. Dip one end of the carpet into your stain, then rub the carpet onto your wood. It doesn’t matter if you go with the grain or against the grain at this point, you just want to make sure that you cover all surfaces. If you are doing intricate work, such as doors with groves or raised panels, be sure to get stain into corners. Over staining at this point is a good idea, because the excess will be wiped off. This is where the drop clothes and wearing an apron come in handy, because it can get pretty messy!!
After you apply stain to your piece, look it over to make sure you didn’t miss any spots. Areas that are commonly missed in learning how to stain your kitchen cabinets include: grooves, door edges, drawer edges, or any corners – like where the raised panel corners meet the door frame.
Step #5 – Wiping The Stain Off – A Very Important Multi-Step In Ensuring Your Piece Looks Great
As you are first learning about staining kitchen cabinets, I suggest you wipe the stain off immediately. Most cans of stain suggest leaving the stain sit for 10 minutes, then wiping off the excess. I’ve found that this does not usually change the color, so why wait? Also, if you are staining kitchen cabinets that are already installed, or already built, and you can’t lay pieces flat, your stain will run all over if you let it sit for any length of time. You will want to wipe it up as soon as possible.
If you want a darker piece of wood, purchase a darker stain color. The only time that waiting to wipe excess stain off will actually darken your piece significantly is if you can let it sit for over 30 minutes. This is really a false darkening, and the problem with it is that your stain is usually so dry by then that it’s difficult to remove smudges and wipe off the piece properly. The stain ends up sitting on top of the wood, not soaking in. Use your own judgment. If you decide to wait the 10 minutes, do it on every piece to ensure consistency.
Actually wiping the excess stain off in itself is a two step process.
First, have several cotton rags at your disposal. Put a rag in each hand. Never touch your wood with bare or gloved hands alone after it’s been stained, as it will leave a smudge mark. Wipe off the bulk of the excess stain. At this point it doesn’t matter if you are going with the grain or not, you just want to get the big spots of stain wiped up.
The second step is a finishing type step in staining kitchen cabinets. Take another clean rag. Go back over your piece of wood, this time with the grain. The second rag takes more stain off, preventing smudge marks. The biggest enemy in staining is leaving smudge marks.
Following these two steps and not being afraid to use rags as needed will ensure that you don’t leave any smudges. Look your piece over. If you have left any smudges, wipe off gently and blend color in with your cotton rag.
Step #6 – The Final Step In Staining – Set Your Pieces Aside To Dry
Now that you’ve learned how to stain kitchen cabinets, set your pieces aside to dry (or just let them hang there if they are already installed). You can lay your piece on a flat surface if only one side is stained. If your piece has multiple sides that are stained, you can lay it flat on something that allows for air circulation to the back, such as saw horses, or if you do enough staining, purchase a professional staining rack. One caveat: where the saw horses or rack touch the stained piece, smudge marks may be left. Before you finish a piece that has dried on such equipment, you may need to touch up that side.
You can also lean your piece against a wall to dry. When your stain is drying, it is best to let air get to as many sides that you have stained as possible. It’s also okay to let fans run in the area where you are drying your piece. This helps it to dry faster and doesn’t hurt the end result; however, never let fans run on a a piece that you’ve put finish on.
How long your piece has to dry depends on what type of stain you are using. Read the label and act accordingly.
ONE FINAL AND IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT SAFETY AS YOU LEARN HOW TO STAIN KITCHEN CABINETS
Remember to hang your rags to dry, ensuring air movement around them as well. Too many times, bunched together wet staining rags have caused a tragic explosion resulting in fire and even death. Please be careful!!
You Are Now Ready For The Next Step – Finishing
Congratulations!!! You have learned how to stain kitchen cabinets and have completed your staining project!
After your pieces are completely dry, you are ready for the next step – putting a beautiful, clear finish on your beautifully stained kitchen cabinets!
And remember – HAVE A HAPPY KITCHEN!!!
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Identifying Dog Worms and their Symptoms
There are 5 different types of dog worms (internal parasites), which your dog can fall prey to. These are: heartworm, hookworm, roundworm, tapeworm and whipworm. As a dog owner, I recommend that you educate yourself on these worms in order to be able to recognize the symptoms if they should become evident in your dog.
Early worm detection is important because each type of dog worm requires a different form of treatment. You should also be aware of the fact that roundworm and hookworm are zoonotic, which means that these worms can be transmitted to humans. Some worm infestations may show little to no symptoms, whereas others can demonstrate severe symptoms, such as vomiting, diarrhea and weight loss. Some dog worms can be seen by the naked eye while some cannot, therefore it is a good idea to ask your vet to perform a stool test for dog worms once a year.
Below you can find a list of common telltale symptoms of dog worm infestation, but keep in mind that these symptoms can also be a sign of a more serious problem. Either way, always consult a veterinarian whenever your dog is not “his usual self.”
Dull coat
Weight loss
Appetite loss
Pot-bellied appearance
Coughing
Low energy level
Diarrhea
Vomiting
ROUNDWORMS (Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina)
There are two types of Roundworm: Toxocara canis and Toxascaris leonine. This is the most common type of dog worm, which affects the intestines and causes a pot-bellied appearance, mostly in puppies. There are a few ways puppies can become infected. Puppies are often infected before birth through the mother’s uterus or through her milk. Puppies can also contract these worms through the ingestion of an infected animal (such as a rodent) or infected soil. Roundworm eggs can live in soil for many years. Once a puppy has ingested the infected soil, the eggs will hatch in his intestines, allowing the worms to live there and grow to adulthood. These adults will then produce more eggs.
Roundworms may be found in your dog’s stool or vomit. They can grow to about 7 inches in length and have a spaghetti-like appearance. If this type of infestation is not detected early and is allowed a chance to develop, a buildup of worms in the intestines can cause an obstruction which may result in death. The symptoms of a severe infestation are: pot-belly appearance, diarrhea, vomiting, dull coat and weight loss.
Puppies should be dewormed every 2 weeks between 2 and 12 weeks of age, then monthly until he is 6 months old. Once your puppy has reached 6 months of age, he is less susceptible to contracting these worms but should continue yearly exams (or more often if considered high-risk).
Because Roundworm can be transmitted to humans, it is important to promote good hygiene, such as washing your hands regularly. Transmission of this dog worm to humans is usually through infected soil, which may be in your backyard or front lawn. Because the eggs are sticky and can easily adhere to hands or clothing, make sure children (and adults) wash their hands after playing outside (especially at a park or playground), after playing with the dog and before it’s time to eat.
Treatment generally involves administering oral medication (dewormer) with follow-up fecal exams and a monthly heartworm medication. Try 1-800-PetMeds – America’s Pet Health Resource
Prevent your dog from contracting roundworms by cleaning up fecal matter from the backyard as often as possible. Also, administering a heartworm medication such as HeartGard – Prescription Heartworm medication for Dogs & Cats is a good preventive. Do not mix wormers and consult your vet before giving your dog any medication. And last, but not least, always remember annual exams.
HOOKWORMS (Ancylostoma caninium)
Like Roundworm, Hookworm harbors in the intestines and can also be transmitted to humans. Hookworms can affect a dog at any age. It is a small, thin worm that hooks on to the intestinal wall and sucks the blood from its victim, which cause anemia and perhaps death. Due to their sharp teeth, they also cause bleeding in the intestines. Hookworms are not visible by the naked eye, therefore should be diagnosed by a vet. As with roundworm, hookworms also live and grow to adulthood in the intestines. They can also be transmitted to pups while in the mother’s uterus or through her breast milk. A dog infected with hookworm would experience bloody stool, anemia, weight loss, pale gums, diarrhea and low energy level. Skin irritation can be a sign of a severe infestation.
Hookworms can be transmitted to humans by penetration of the skin, making it is possible for people to become infected simply by walking barefoot on infected soil. Hookworms, when transmitted to humans, can cause bleeding in the intestines along with abdominal pain and diarrhea.
Treatment usually consists of oral medications (dewormer), follow-up fecal exams, intravenous therapy and, if necessary, a blood transfusion. Hookworm infestation can kill your pup before the worm is ever detected. This is why it is so important to keep up with veterinary visits and exams.
TAPEWORMS (Dipylidium caninum)
The tapeworm gets its name from its long, flat, tape-like appearance. It is yet another parasite that affects the intestines, and like the roundworm, can be seen by the naked eye. Broke pieces of this dog worm would be found in the dog’s fecal matter, which give it a rice-like appearance. These pieces of worm, although broken, can be found (still moving) around the dog’s anus, in his stool or in his bed. Common symptoms of severe tapeworm infestation are abdominal pain, nervousness, severe itching around the anus, vomiting and weight loss.
Transmission to dogs is often caused by the ingestion of infected fleas. Although, humans are susceptible to being infected, a dog cannot transmit the dog worm to a human directly.
Regular over-the-counter deworming medication is not effective in eliminating this type of dog worm. A prescription dewormer is administered orally or by injection (praziquantel or epsiprantel). Consult your vet. Try 1-800-PetMeds – America’s Pet Health Resource
WHIPWORMS (Trichuris vulpis)
Whipworms are long, thin (whip-shaped) dog worms that live in the dog’s colon and are not visible by the naked eye. They attach themselves to the intestinal walls and feed off of them which, in turn, causes intestinal bleeding. Common symptoms of whipworm infestation are anemia, weight loss, flatulence, diarrhea with blood or mucus in the stool and lack of energy.
Although whipworms are the most difficult to eliminate among the families of dog worms, there is effective treatment available.
Whipworm is most effectively treated with fenbendazole (panacur), but febantel can also be used. Prescription medications are usually more effective. The treatment lasts for up to 5 days and is repeated after 3 weeks. After this treatment is finished, consult your vet about recommending a heartworm medication (containing milbemycin oxime) as a prophylactic to future infestation. Try 1-800-PetMeds – America’s Pet Health Resource
Along with administering heartworm medication regularly, here are other ways to prevent reinfection:
Remove feces from backyard every few days
Clean yard with a safe cleaning agent (which kills worms)
Have feces tested every 6 months (more often if previously infected)
HEARTWORMS (Dirofilaria immitis)
Heartworm, although highly preventable, has the potential to be fatal, if contracted and left untreated.
Heartworm is spread by mosquitoes, mostly during the warm months when mosquitoes are most active. The mosquito becomes infected from biting dogs that carry the disease. These dog worms destroy the muscle and tissue of the heart, which can cause congestive heart failure and result in death. At this advanced stage, your dog would experience the typical signs of worms, such as pot-belly, coughing, lack of energy and dull coat.
Unfortunately, there are no symptoms of this disease until it has progressed to an advanced stage. For this reason, it is important to start your dog on a heartworm preventative such as HeartGard – Prescription Heartworm medication for Dogs & Cats at 6 months of age (after the first stage deworming process is complete. Check with your vet). Prevention is the best medicine.
General guidelines for dog worm prevention
When walking your dog in a park, picking up his feces as a standard practice not only prevents soil contamination, but also prevents the spread of many other dog diseases.
Regular visits to the vet and stool testing is a great way to prevent dog worms, as well as other illnesses. Twice-yearly worm testing is recommended. Make sure your dog is tested for worms before starting a heartworm preventative.
High-risk dogs should be screened more often (check with your vet).
Flea control is important because fleas are responsible for the spread of tapeworms.
Most puppies find feces quite appetizing. Keep your dog away from feces: his own as well as others. This is the most common form of worm infestation.
When cleaning your dog’s area, such as his bed or crate, spray it with a strong saltwater solution and let dry. This aids in the prevention of worms.
Before traveling with your dog to obscure destinations, consult your vet of the potential risks to your dog.
Avoid exposing your dog to stray animals, birds and dead rodents, which often harbor immature tapeworms that can mature inside your dog.
Contact your vet if your dog displays any symptoms after receiving worm medication.
This information is NOT intended to replace the advice of a veterinarian, dog trainer or pet care professional.
Can My Cat Catch a Cold?
If you are like me, you probably have never had a cat with a cold, but cats with colds are fairly common.
How does a cat get a cold? The first thought that comes to mind is “can my cat catch my cold?”
The answer to that is no and “no” you cannot catch your cat’s cold. It is said that cold viruses are species-specific, which means pets and humans cannot pass a cold back and forth.
While we can (for the most part) “doctor” our colds with over-the-counter remedies, our cats cannot.
A cold is serious business for a cat and even more serious if you have a multiple cat household.
Oddly enough, your cat’s symptoms will be very similar to yours, sneezing, runny nose, coughing, wheezing and sometimes a mucous discharge either from its nose or mouth. It is also possible for your cat to have a breathing problem, cold sore type ulcers around it mouth and red teary eyes that have a discharge.
Cat colds are very contagious and interestingly, cats are more susceptible to colds in the summer time.
Where can your cat pick up a cold?
At a boarding kennel, the groomers, at your vets and if your cat is an indoor/outdoor cat, it can pick up the virus from any cat it encounters outside.
What can you do for your cat’s cold?
First of all do not try any human over-the-counter remedies. Usually a cat cold lasts just about as long as a human cold (7 to 10 days) and the cat will get over it just as we do.
Where it gets complicated is, if the viral infection travels to the lungs or bronchial area causing a lower respiratory infection or if a secondary bacterial infection occurs in the nose, mouth or eye area.
This is why at the first sign your cat is coming down with a cold, you should call your vet. This ounce of prevention can honestly save you many vet dollars, should the cold develop into something more serious.
Once a cat gets a respiratory infection it is possible that it will re-occur time and time again (like the proverbial bad penny.)
Another important thing to take under consideration is cats smell their food before they eat it. This is normal cat behavior and if your cat has a stuffy nose, it cannot smell its food.
What happens when a cat can’t smell its food?
The cat will not eat or even drink. The cat becomes dehydrated and starts using up its own fat stores for energy.
A cat needs to eat and drink (most canned cat food provides not only nutrition, but water,) the result of not eating can cause a condition known as hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver syndrome, which can be life threatening.
This is why, if your cat shows any sign of a cold or stops eating for any reason call your vet at once.
I can’t say this enough, that one simple phone call may save you many future vet dollars.
A cat’s cold can be a simple runny nose (wipe it with a warm wet washcloth, cats can’t blow) and require nothing more than some TLC from you, but check with your vet first.
There are two types of viruses that can cause a cat to have cold like symptoms, the first is felline herpesvirus (FHV) and feline calicivirus (FCV). Keep up all of your cat’s recommended vaccinations as the vaccine for FHV and FCV is given at regular intervals.
Keeping your cat indoors is truly the best way to protect your cat from being the recipient of “what is going around.”
Why Does a Cat Roll Over on Its Back When it Sees You?
Whenever you walk into a room where a cat is lying down asleep on the floor and you greet it with some friendly words, it may react by rolling over on its back, extending its legs as far as they’ll go, yawning, exercising its claws and gently flipping the tip of its tail. As the animal performs these activities, it will stare at you, determining your mood. This is a cat’s method of offering you a passively friendly response and it’s something which is only executed to close family members. Not many cats would take a chance at such a greeting if the person entering the room were a stranger, because the exposing of the belly position makes the animal extremely susceptible. So, this makes up the core of its friendliness. The cat is saying, in effect, ‘I roll over to show you my belly to prove that I trust you enough to assume this highly defenseless position in your presence.’
A cat that was more active would rush over to you and begin rubbing against you as a type of friendly greeting, but a cat in a lazy, sleepy mood favors the belly roll demonstration. The yawning and stretching that goes along with it reflects the sleepiness of the cat; a sleepiness which it’s prepared to disturb just so much and no more. The faint flipping of the tail shows that there’s a small element of conflict building up; a conflict between staying stretched out and getting up to greet the your arrival.
It’s not always safe to presume that a cat giving this belly up display is inclined to permit you to stroke its delicate underside. It might seem to be volunteering this option, but often an effort to respond with a friendly hand is encountered with a swipe from an annoyed paw. The belly area is so well protected by the cat that it finds touch there unpleasant, except in situations where the cat and its owner have acquired a very high level of social closeness. However, most average cats are leery about their more delicate parts and draws the line when they are approached.
Home Remedies to Kill Fleas
A nasty annoying pest called the flea plagues both humans and animals alike. Although there are plenty of chemicals you can buy to kill these pests, most people would rather use home remedies for fleas. Chemicals can hurt both the fleas and your pets, and could do harm to you and your children. Before there were pesticides and other flea killers, people used old-fashioned home remedies to kill fleas.
The various ways and techniques we use to get rid of fleas today do not always give us the expected results. Side effects and short-lived extermination accompany the many ways we get rid of these vile pests. Prednisone and corticosteroid are drugs that are used to remedy fleabites. However, they weaken the immune system. There are chemicals on the market that are very successful in killing fleas but they are poisonous and could pose a threat in the long-term. There are plenty of negatives to using drugs and chemicals to kill fleas. One should take note that making their homes and bodies toxic waste dumps to kill the fleas just to have them return makes no sense. Home remedies for fleas are the way to go.
Some natural ways of ridding your home of these vile creatures are to keep your house as clean as possible, indoors and outdoors, carpets and floors, and every corner of your home should be vacuumed on a daily basis. I know vacuuming everyday can be a hustle for some people, however, that’s the price one must pay to keep pets. Because fleas can jump far distances, food should be covered, and all food spills cleaned up quickly. Fleas do not eat food, but they can spread disease when they encounter food. According to experts, a clean home is not an attractive place for fleas. Watery areas is also considered a breeding place for fleas, all water should be mopped up immediately. Check pipes and faucets to make sure there are no leaks. If pesticides are the route you would like to take, use the less harmful natural ones. Other natural home remedies for fleas are coriander, bay leaves, dill, lemon peel, and cloves. Placing these items in cabinets and cupboards will keep fleas away from infesting these areas where food is stored.
Pets can appear less attractive to fleas if their given diets rich in essential fatty acids which strengthens their immune system. It is also essential that your pets bedding be washed on a regular basis. Keeping fleas away from your home and your pet is possible by following these simple steps.
How to Fix a Leaky Outdoor Faucet
A frost free leaky outdoor faucet, or spigot, is not just annoying; it can cost you a small fortune in water bills if left unchecked. In addition, a leaky outdoor faucet can also cause damage to your home and yard.
Fortunately, for even a novice do-it-yourselfer, a leaky outdoor faucet can be frequently fixed with just a few basic tools and about 30 minutes of time, saving you a small bundle in otherwise plumber repair costs.
Identify Source of Outdoor Faucet Leak
The first thing you need to do is to determine where the outdoor faucet leak is coming from.
First check to see if the leak is occurring around the top cap that sits just back behind the handle. Inevitably this cap becomes loose on frost free outdoor faucets and all you need to do is simply tighten it back up using your hand. Overtime this cap becomes loose due to changes in seasonal temperatures or simply from frequent use of the faucet.
Next, check to see if it is leaking directly out the spout itself.
If the leak is occurring from the faucet spout, even after you have confirmed the handle is fully turned to the closed position, then chances are there is a failed washer sitting back behind the faucet handle.
Disassembling the Outdoor Faucet
To replace the washer, first turn the water off to the outdoor faucet. Usually the shut off valve to the outdoor spigot can be found inside the home, for example in a utility room just behind the outdoor faucet. The shut off valve may also be located in the basement.
Next, turn the outdoor faucet to the full on position to relieve any pressure in it and to allow the water to fully drain from the faucet.
Now, using a screwdriver remove the screw that holds the handle onto the faucet.
With the screw removed, pull the handle off.
After removing the faucet handle, use a wrench to remove the faucet nut that sits back behind the handle.
Replace Washer and Clean Internal Faucet Area
Typically it is the washer that sits behind the faucet nut (sillcock nut) that fails. Remove it with your fingers or small screw driver and examine it for damage or wear. If you see either, replace the washer. Also, make sure the internal faucet (sillcock) is free from dirt and grime. If there is grime in it, flush it out with water.
Re-assemble Outdoor Faucet
Once you have replaced the washer and the internal faucet area is free of any grit, reattach the faucet nut cap, the handle, and the screw that holds the handle onto the faucet.
Test Repaired Outdoor Faucet
Turn the water back on at the valve within the basement or utility room to the outdoor faucet and observe water flowing freely from the faucet.
Turn the handle to the off position. If the washer or grit was the problem the leak should no longer be present.
Note that with a frost free outdoor water faucet, the actual shutoff valve sits far back into the faucet / sillcock pipe, (approximately 8 inches), so do not be surprised to see a few drips of water initially after shutting off the faucet. After a few minutes, however, you should see no more drips. With that your leaky outdoor faucet is a thing of the past!
Tips On Removing Fleas From Your Carpet And Furnishings
If your dog or cat has fleas, you want the little insects out of your house fast. But getting rid of fleas means more than just treating your pet. You’re going to have to work on cleaning your whole house to rid your home of fleas. Otherwise, fleas will hide in carpets and bedding or on your sofa and in all the places your pet likes to frequent. The life cycles of fleas can make it very hard to get rid of them unless you are very careful to remove them from your carpets. When eggs hidden in cloth fibers hatch they leap back on to your pet and the cycle starts all over again.
Your carpets and floor rugs will have to be washed. If you can toss them in your washing machine, go for it. Use soapy water, as the soap will kill the fleas. If your carpets are too big, vacuum them thoroughly and dispose of the vacuum bag properly by wrapping it in a plastic bag before throwing it away.
Have a carpet cleaner come in to wash your flooring. Steam cleaning will rid your carpet of eggs and larvae hiding in the fibers. Pest control professionals and some carpet cleaner experts can also treat your carpets for you. For those who can’t afford steam cleaning or professional carpet cleaners, wash your carpets with insecticidal soap.
However, once an infestation has been brought under control by these methods, you can keep it under control simply by regular vacuum. Up to fifty percent of flea eggs can be eliminated with one vacuum. Dr Michael Drydon, Professor of Veterinary Parasitology at Kansas University conducted experiments on nylon carpets which showed that vacuuming controls fleas as well as permethrin at the pupal stage. Permethrin is a commonly used synthetic pesticide and therefore introduces a health risk into your home. In peak flea season, Dr Drydon recommends vacuuming very second day, paying particular attention to areas your pets frequent and remembering to clean underneath sofas and chairs. The vacuum bag should be removed at least weekly and thrown into an outdoor trash bin.
Even if you prefer to use a chemical solution to your flea problem, you will still need to clean the carpet. However, as a final touch to rid your carpets of fleas, you can spray your flooring with a flea-killing solution, paying special attention to the places your pet loves the most. You can pick up a few bottles of spray at most stores or your veterinarian. It is probably unnecessary though, and if you have little children (or even big children) who crawl, roll, lie or sit on your carpet, you will be exposing them to a pesticide which can be absorbed through the skin. Furthermore, the whole family will be breathing the vapor of the pesticide for some time. If it’s not absolutely necessary, why do it?
Karndean Vinyl Flooring – Quite Possibly a Perfect Floor
Karndean vinyl flooring is one of the most exciting new floorcovering options available in the market. Karndean creates vinyl planks and tiles that realistically simulate natural materials such as Wood, Stone, Slate, Ceramic and Marble. With recent breakthroughs in technology, these luxury vinyl planks and tiles look so amazingly real it will surprise you.
These floors are very different from sheet type vinyl. As the floor is installed piece by piece, it gives a handcrafted look just as hardwood or real tile floors would appear. Karndean also manufactures these tiles and planks with semi random patterns so there are no repeating patterns to cause the floor to look cheap or like standard vinyl resilient flooring. A unique feature of Karndean is the coloring of the floors. Slight changes are made to the vinyl coloring to give a slight random color difference. By doing this, the floors look like the real thing and there are no dye lot issues if you ever need to replace a plank or tile. There are six distinct reasons why Karndean luxury vinyl tiles and planks are considered by many to be the perfect floor.
1. Karndean vinyl floors are stain proof against pretty much everything except petroleum based spills. This includes everything from red wine to pet urine.
2. These vinyl tiles and planks are waterproof as well. If you have a leak in the kitchen or bathroom, the water will not damage the vinyl. This is a very distinct advantage over true hardwood flooring and laminate. If you have a leak under the dishwasher, and you have hardwood or laminate, you will have to replace part or all of the floor at a huge expense. With Karndean, the worst case is you may have to have the floor reinstalled.
3. This flooring is hypoallergenic as well as mold and mildew resistant.
4. Luxury vinyl planks and tiles are very hard to scratch compared to laminate and hardwood. If you have pets, you absolutely cannot install a better floor than luxury vinyl.
5. Karndean tiles are almost impossible to chip or break when compared to ceramic, slate, stone and marble tiles. If you drop something heavy on them it may cause a slight indentation. Of course if you have real tile, it will probably crack or chip and will have to be replaced.
6. Cleaning is a snap. Dust mopping regularly and an occasional damp mopping is all that is needed. There is never a need to reapply any finishes or buffing needed.
Now that you know why Karndean is so close to perfect, what are some of the styles that are offered? There are 6 different series offered from Karndean.
1. The Van Gogh lines has 22 variations of Wood planks. Almost every color and species imaginable are available.
2. Art Select vinyl from Karndean has 11 options to choose from between simulated Wood planks and Limestone modular tiles.
3. Da Vinci is one the more popular styles for luxury vinyl tile. With over 33 selections of tiles ranging from 16 inch to 12 inch in Ceramic, Slate and Sandstone you can find about anything you desire. Wood planks are also part of the Da Vinci series.
4. Knight tile has 33 choices of tiles and planks. Terra Cotta, Marble, Slate, Stone and Wood round out Knight tile.
5. Karndean’s Michelango line is a unique product line of tiles for a distinct décor. There are 12 products including Italian Mosaic, Spanish Pebble and even a Metallic tile.
6. Renoir is the last series of vinyl plank and tile flooring from Karndean. Renoir has 13 different types of Wood, Slate and Concrete tiles.
Rough Openings For Doors
One of the most important parts of framing walls is getting
the rough openings right. Items that determine what the
height of One of the most important parts of framing walls is getting
the rough openings right. Items that determine what the
height of your opening will be are floor finishes and the
use of underlayment. Door widths will stay constant with the
size of a standard door.
In new construction most doors are hung after the floors are
installed. This allows flooring contractors (tile, hardwood,
vinyl, laminate) to lay their flooring products without
making tricky cuts around door jambs. It also makes for a
neat and clean door installation. Exceptions to this are
carpeted floors. Doors are hung before the carpeting is
laid. When doors are hung in carpeted areas, its a good idea
to shim them up 1/2″, putting a shim under each jamb leg.
This eliminates the need to cut the doors down after the
carpet is installed.
For a 6′ 8″ high door (80 inches) I like to frame my rough
opening height at 82 3/4″. This allows room for all the
situations mentioned above. If your header material is a
double 2×12, holding it to the top plate will give you that
height.
Rough openings for door widths are pretty much standard. The
rough opening width is 2 inches wider than the door itself.
this allows room for the door jambs which are usually 3/4″
thick. This gives you approximately 1/2″ of play and shim
room when installing a prehung door. For a 36″ door (3′ 0″)
the rough opening width would be 38″. Here are the most
common door sizes and their rough openings.
Door Size Rough Opening Size
2′ 0″ x 6’8″ -26″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 2″ x 6’8″ -28″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 4″ x 6’8″ -30″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 6″ x 6’8″ -32″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 8″ x 6’8″ -34″ x 82 3/4″
2′ 10″x 6’8″ -36″ x 82 3/4″
3′ 0″ x 6’8″ -38″ x 82 3/4″
To figure the rough opening for double doors or french
doors, take the door size times 2 and add 2″. The most
common sizes for exterior doors are the 2’8″ and the 3’0″
doors. The 2’8″ is usually used for the back door and the
access door from the garage. That size door for exterior use
is being used less these days because of the size of
appliances and furniture. Exterior doors with sidelights and
sliding patio doors rough openings vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. These should be verified and gotten from the
supplier.
Getting the rough openings right the first time keeps the
sawzall in its carrying case and having to change the
opening after the walls are drywalled and painted.
Mike Merisko (c) 2006
http://www.sawkerfs.com
How To Winterize Your Boat
Winterizing your boat is the single most important maintenance duty that you will have to perform as a boat owner. If it is done correctly, very little work will be required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring. Proper winterization greatly extends the life of the boat and its engine by protecting its components from freezing, corrosion and lying idle for long periods.
The first step in the winterization process is to ensure that the boat’s fuel tank is full – leave just a little room for expansion – and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn’t full you run the risk of condensation forming within the tank which can lead to corrosion and clogging.
Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel filter.
Protecting Your Engine
Run the engine for a while to warm it up and change the oil while it’s warm. This allows many of the impurities in the oil to be drained away. Change the oil filters. If your engine uses coolant drain the current fluid from the engine block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol based antifreeze.
When a boat is not being used, oil tends to settle at the bottom of the engine block, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To avoid this situation remove the spark plugs and spray “fogging oil” inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires.
Replace the engine’s old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center.
Outboards
Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to drain from the engine and wash down the engine with soap and water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it stops. It is important to ensure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads, and lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a quality wax. Change the gear oil in the lower unit.
If your boat will be stored out of the water during the off season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats left in the water should have the battery left in place on board and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to function if required. If you are removing the battery from the boat, ensure it is fully charged before stowing it away. Recharge every 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger during the storage period and check the water level from time to time.
It is also sensible to remove any valuable marine electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place to avoid theft and possible damage caused by temperature changes and humidity. The winterization process also offers an opportunity to inspect items like lines, flotation devices, flares, fire extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and possible replacement.
Propeller
This is also a good time to check your boat’s propeller and hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive wear. If this type of damage is apparent, replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs during the winterizing process.
Clean, Clean, Clean
Clean the boat thoroughly inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned, apply a quality polish to the exterior surfaces to create a protective barrier against dirt and dust. Clean the interior, including all timber, vinyl and carpet.
To help keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat.
Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they’ll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze.
Empty The Head
Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use an approved cleaner for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Check your owner’s manual to be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won’t damage your system.
Water Tanks
Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze through the system by turning on all the taps / shower until the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze to the water heater.
Put it on Blocks
If you own a trailer boat, consider putting the boat and trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the tires. Inspect the trailer and tires for wear and tear. Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary.
If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need to leave it outdoors you’ll require a boat cover. A good quality 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover should be adequate for most situation. Even undercover the boat should be covered to protect against dust and dirt, pests and bird droppings. For extreme conditions you could consider shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself kits are available.